MARK MARTINSON [4min]
Mark Martinson was US champ at age 17, and a year later was on the run from the US Army, who were looking to induct his salty ass and plant it somewhere in Vietnam. The pressure suited him. Mark did the best surfing of his life over the next 7 years, until the authorities finally nabbed him. He did three weeks in Basic Training then got the discharged. Asthema! Mark's lucky star continues to shine brightly in 2019.